It’s quite often I get asked, “How do I make my first shot
from the holster faster?” or “What should my draw time be at X distance,” and
my response is usually the same, it depends. There are a lot of factors that go
into both of these questions. What type of holster are you using i.e.
Retention, concealment, or open top? How good is the eyesight of the person
shooting? What type of sights are you using? What’s the size of target?
The two elements to work on for faster draw times, is moving
faster from the holster to presentation and reading the sights as soon as they
are in front of you. I know that may seem like a big “Duh,” however it really
is that simple. Oh yeah, and tons of repetitions. Remember, you can’t miss fast
enough!!
When I first started actually using a timer to track how
long it took me to get the first shot off from a holster, I was around 2.00 for
an “A” zone hit at 10 yards. Now I could hit at faster times, but this was my
every time, no miss hit. The reason for the last statement is because you need
to know what your “repeatable” times are. Think of a baseball player, he can
swing for the fence on every pitch and is more likely to hit foul balls or fly
out because he is pushing his max ability all the time. Only on occasion will
he connect for the homerun. However, if the player would perform at a more consistent level,
and swing with a little more control, they maybe able to get a base hit more
often therefore creating a higher batting average. Shooting a pistol can be
related along the same lines. If you move so fast, throw the gun up with out
seeing the sights and pull the trigger, you are swinging for the fence. The
question to ask your self is, “Can I repeat that time with the same accuracy
over and over again?
So how do we get the next level of performance? The first
thing I would look at is your equipment. I believe equipment has a lot to do
with performance. You don’t see bike riders riding the Tour De France on a
Wal-Mart 10 speed. You don’t see professional chefs using the cheapest cooking
utensils or Grade D meats. When I first started, I was using a factory Glock 17
with factory night sights. There is nothing wrong with that, however certain
things needed to be changed to increase performance. I had trouble getting my
first shot off at a time that I felt was solid. I could not see what I needed
to see on the sights. For me, having three dots to look at and no space right
and left of the front sight, caused me to hesitate too long at presentation.
So I was introduced to a set of sights from Warren
Tactical and I have to say….WOW, what a difference. For me, it was
like putting on a new set of glasses. Without hesitation I put Warren Tactical
sights on all my guns. I prefer the all black rear with a fiber optic front
sight. With having a red fiber optic, it stands out so much that my eyes are
forced to go straight to the sight. So now I’m able to execute faster times
without sacrificing fundamentals.
The next thing to look at is your holster. You have to
understand that your draw times will change based on what you are drawing out
of. A concealment draw or retention holster will generally be a few tenths
slower than an open top. The times shouldn’t be drastically different but you
should see some change. When I first came into Law Enforcement in 1998, we were
using leather holsters with thumb breaks. Now the trend seems to be Kydex or
molded plastic. I find that the Kydex or molded plastic holsters tend to be a
little quicker. So I have switched all my holsters to Safariland Products.
For competition, I use the ELS Belt System with an open top
holster for USPSA and the “Range Series” holster and magazine pouches for IDPA.
I would recommend the ALS or SLS style holsters for guys who carry for a living.
I have been running a SLS for over 10 years and love it. The retention saved my
butt one night on the side of the road. So I believe I owe my life to
Safariland !!
Now, once your equipment is set up the way you want it, it’s
time to start learning how to move fast. If you are not familiar with drawing a
gun from a holster, then the following may be a little advanced for you at this
point in your training. I would suggest a little different approach until you
are confident in drawing a loaded gun from a holster.
The first thing you want to do is get a baseline of where you
are currently. If you don’t know what your average draw time is at 10 yards, go
to the range and get that information first. Then you have something to base
your progress on. One of the best drills I have found to get the gun out of the
holster fast, is a drill called “beat the
clock.” This is a very simple drill to increase speed of movement and speed
of acquiring sight picture. Also, if you can’t make it to the range, this can
also be done under dry-fire practice. I would suggest trying this dry a couple
times first to make sure that safety is being followed and you don’t make a
costly mistake during your training.
Here is how to set the drill up for dry practice. First make
sure your gun and any magazines you have are UNLOADED, pick out a spot on the
wall (Picture frame or light switch), and set a shot timer for a par time of .80.
(If you don’t have a shot timer, go to this link or look
up an app for it)
The idea is to react to the buzzer and have the gun out of
the holster, sights aligned on your spot, with the front sight in focus, and
the trigger prepped. At .80 this is very difficult to do, however you begin to
move faster and faster to achieve success. Only 5 minutes a day and you will
see improvement in your time.
Once you feel comfortable with the drill and feel you are
safe while practicing, time to take it to the range. Start by standing 3 meters
from the target. Being this close will give you a since of urgency when getting
the gun out. When the buzzer sounds, draw the gun, present to full extension,
and fire the round. Don’t aim!! We are just measuring the time it takes you to
get the gun from the holster to presentation. This is also not a drill to teach
point shooting. I’ll address point shooting in a later post. Rounds just need
to hit the target somewhere. Start with a goal time that will push you. If you
are at 1.25, shoot for 1.00. If you are at 1.00, shoot for .80. I try to be
less than .75 with each draw. This includes retention holsters, concealment
holsters and open top. Once you have done that about 25 times, go back to 10
yards and mentally prepare yourself for one shot from the holster. Once the
buzzer sounds, move at the same speed as if you were at 3 yards, just hesitate
on the sight to ensure an “A” zone hit. That’s hit. As your distances get
further or your targets get smaller, the only time that’s added is the
hesitation or aiming time. The actual draw speed is the same.
Try this drill the next time you are at the range and send
me your results at brandon@wrightshooting.com. I’m curious to see how much time
this drill can cut for you.
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